Crested Geckos of Superior Quality

Rhacodactylus ciliatus, or Crested Geckos, are abundant. It’s difficult for me to comprehend how this gecko was once considered to be extinct after selectively breeding it for the past 5 years. Crested Geckos are so simple to breed that the market is flooded with low-quality geckos. I hope that after reading this, your chances and knowledge of breeding Crested Geckos will assist you in producing amazing Crested Geckos. read here

Maturity in Sexual Relations
At six months of age, male Crested Geckos grow a hemipenile bulge. They may and will try to court and breed with a female who is too young at this stage. Males should be kept apart from females until they weigh at least 35 grammes and no less. The female could develop fertile eggs safely at 35 grammes, but any younger and the female could face health risks such as egg binding. If fully formed eggs grow in a female who is too young or small to breed, she may be unable to lay these fully formed eggs, leading to egg binding and death. 35 grammes of weight or 14 months of age is a decent rule of thumb.
A Healthy Adult Couple Copulating
When a healthy adult pair of Crested Geckos is introduced, the male can make head bobbing movements, sway his tail from side to side, and make a clucking sound that is repeated and spaced with one long pause between them. The male may approach the female from the side or behind, and an inexperienced male will bite the female’s back quarter and continue biting until he reaches the female’s side and is parallel to her body. With a final bite to the neck area, he will be safe. The female will lift her back legs, and the male will mount her behind. Although the biting your female may receive is usually not harmful, an inexperienced male will cause her to break her skin. These can recover with wounds that are almost undetectable.
Concerns about egg production
The female will produce eggs in her abdomen after copulation. The sides of the gecko will begin to protrude, and the gecko’s belly will feel oblong when being treated. After 25-35 days, the eggs will hatch, and a clutch should be laid in a moist hide in the enclosure. A lay box is a moist hide that can be as easy as an Extra Small Kritter Keeper with the lid removed and moss or a form of soil as a substrate.
The Eggs’ Incubation
Many people assume that incubating the eggs is easy. Producing high-quality hatchlings is not as easy as many people assume. We’ve been saying for years that incubating in low temperatures is the safest way to go because our hatchlings came out of the egg with very little yolk left and were larger in size. Living Art Creations Herpetological’s Andrew Gilpin put this theory to the test by incubating clutch mates at two different temperatures. His research and comparisons revealed that when incubated at 75 degrees Fahrenheit, but with a minimum of 70 degrees Fahrenheit, the tail pad and crest structure are more developed. Incubate the eggs in a 3″ deep tub or deli cup filled with Calcined Clay ( SuperHatch ). Incubate at the temperatures mentioned above for four months, and you should have well, well-bred, and hatched Crested Geckos.
Care of Hatchlings
With one difference, temperature, caring for hatchlings is similar to caring for adults. Temperature has an effect on growth rate. While the neonate required cooler temperatures in order to eat more yolk and develop, the hatchling needs warmer temperatures in order to accelerate development. Keep the room temperature at 80 degrees Fahrenheit for both hatchlings and adults, but keep in mind that the eggs must be incubated at a much lower temperature. In reality, as the temperature rises, both hatchlings and adults eat more food. Keep in mind that the temperature should never exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit. After the first shed, a hatchling is not allowed to eat anything. If the area between the eyes is the same size as the length of the cricket, we feed Crested Gecko Diet by Repashy Superfoods and one to two week old Crickets. We stick to the same everyday routine, feeding CGD on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays and replacing the meal with fresh food on the other days. The only difference between feeding adults and hatchlings is the size of the part.