The issue is that it is doing nothing. “Of or becoming an inactive,” according to Webster’s dictionary, is part of the concept of “passive.” Since you think you’re ahead of the game when it comes to radon mitigation, here’s some more good news: while the US EPA and the state of Iowa require that anyone installing an active radon mitigation system be properly trained, certified, and licenced by the state, there are no such requirements for the contractor installing a passive system.Do you want to learn more? Visit Radon Mitigation Colorado Springs-Radon Mitigation of the Rockies Colorado Springs
These passive radon systems are often mounted in such a way that they are rendered useless or ineffective. The only way to find out is to cut or disconnect the PVC pipe where it passes through the concrete and look underneath. The PVC pipe is supposed to go through the sub-slab, or concrete, and into the dirt, gravel, or sand below when it is installed. To better build a good suction point, skilled and certified radon mitigations typically dig through the sub-slab and then dig out or remove up to 10 gallons of soil, gravel, or sand. They’re making a cavity to allow the soil, gravel, or sand underneath the concrete to communicate.
So, what are your options for converting your PVC pipe into a radon mitigation system? Here are some general guidelines to follow, but remember that installation should be done by a licenced radon mitigation specialist in your state. Since most passive systems are installed into the house, they usually run up the walls, through closets, or around the corners of rooms. The PVC pipe can sometimes be completely exposed. To avoid leaks, the PVC pipe should be terminated through the roof with proper roof flashing and sealing. Some contractors will only instal a passive radon system up to the attic level, but not through the roof. The goal is to get the radon gases out of the house, which necessitates going through the roof.